Phulwari Emerald Polki Necklace

The flower heads are built separately and set at their own heights, so the surface is never flat. The sections are graduated toward the centre, which is what keeps the piece sitting level. 1049 diamonds cover the face, set tight enough that the ground reads as stone rather than metal.

The stones are set the jadau way: gold softened over heat and worked up around each one, with no claw and no solder showing. The order matters, because once a stone is bedded the metal beside it cannot be reheated. The diamonds and emeralds are matched for tone before anything is set, which takes longer than matching for size.

14KT Yellow Gold. 18.41g. Diamonds: 1049 pcs. Emeralds: 173 pcs, 204.82 cts. Polki diamonds. Made to order.