What Is Kundan Jewellery? A Complete Buying Guide

Kundan is one of the oldest stone-setting traditions in Indian jewellery-making, and one of the most misunderstood. Buyers often ask what is kundan jewellery expecting a single material or a single look, when in truth it describes a setting technique refined over generations and still practised by hand today. The confusion is understandable - the word is used loosely across the market, sometimes to describe a material, sometimes a style, and sometimes an entire category of bridal jewellery.

This guide, from Jaipur Gems, sets out to answer the question properly: what the term actually means, how kundan jewellery is made, what a complete set typically includes, how it relates to jadau craftsmanship, and how to tell genuine handwork from an imitation before you buy

Quick Answer: What Is Kundan Jewellery

Kundan jewellery is jewellery set using kundan — pure, softened gold pressed by hand around a gemstone, without prongs, claws, or solder. It's a setting method, not a stone, and is closely related to jadau craftsmanship, since most kundan pieces are made using the jadau technique.

The gold is pressed, not soldered, giving a smooth, continuous finish
Kundan is prized for heirloom bridal sets passed down across generations
A complete set typically includes a necklace, earrings, a maang tikka, and bangles
Genuine handwork shows slight variation between pieces, not perfect uniformity

What Is Kundan?

Kundan is pure, highly refined gold that has been softened to the point where it can be pressed and moulded by hand. In traditional stone-setting, this softened gold is worked around the edges of a gemstone to hold it in place - without prongs, claws, or visible clasps.

The result is a setting that looks continuous, almost poured, rather than mechanically fixed. This is the defining quality that separates kundan work from modern claw or prong settings:

The gold foil is pressed, not soldered, into position
The stone sits flush within the metal rather than raised above it
The finish reads as smooth and unbroken, with no visible mounting

So when someone asks what is kundan, the accurate answer is that it refers to the material and method of setting - not the stone itself, and not a style of jewellery on its own.

What Is Kundan Jewellery?

Kundan jewellery is jewellery made using this technique - gemstones, typically uncut or polished, set into a metal base with kundan (refined gold) rather than claws or prongs. Because the setting has no visible hardware, the stones appear to sit within the piece itself, giving kundan jewellery its layered, handworked appearance.

Kundan jewellery is closely associated with:

Royal Indian courts, where the technique was patronised for formal and ceremonial adornment
Mughal-era workshops, where the method was developed and passed down through generations of artisans
Bridal and ceremonial wear, where its weight and detailing suit formal occasions

The technique has endured across generations precisely because it does not depend on faceting or polish for its effect - the craftsmanship itself is the ornament. That is also why kundan jewellery remains associated with heirloom pieces passed down within a family, rather than jewellery bought for a single occasion and set aside afterward.

What Is Jadau Jewellery, and How Is It Related to Kundan?

Jadau is the broader jewellery-making tradition that originated in Rajasthan during the Mughal period. It refers to the practice of embedding gemstones into a metal base without soldering - building the setting around the stone rather than fixing the stone into a pre-made mount.

Kundan is one form this technique takes: in kundan work, the setting medium is refined gold. Put simply:

Jadau is the technique of embedding stones without soldering
Kundan is the material - pure gold foil - used to carry out that technique

Because kundan is the material most associated with jadau work, the two terms are frequently used together, and much of what is sold as kundan jewellery is, strictly speaking, jadau craftsmanship executed in kundan.

A Brief History Behind the Craft

Kundan work is generally traced to the royal workshops of Rajasthan and the wider Mughal courts, where jewellers were commissioned to set gemstones for rulers, courtiers, and ceremonial occasions. Uncut stones were prized in this period for their form and colour rather than for symmetrical faceting, and kundan setting was developed as a method suited specifically to these irregular stones.

Because the technique required stones to be held by hand-worked gold rather than mechanical clasps, it demanded artisans with years of training in a single, narrow skill - setting stone by stone, piece by piece. That specialisation has continued largely unchanged. Even now, a kundan workshop typically separates the work into distinct stages, with different artisans responsible for the base, the stone-cutting, the gold-softening, and the final setting.

This history is part of why kundan jewellery carries the weight it does at weddings and family occasions - it is not simply decorative, but a continuation of a courtly craft tradition that has been carried forward by artisan families for generations.

How Is Kundan Jewellery Made?

Kundan jewellery is made through a slow, multi-stage process, carried out almost entirely by hand. Each stage requires a different specialist, and a single piece can pass through several artisans before it is complete.

At a high level, the process runs as follows:

The jewellery base - usually gold - is shaped and prepared
Cavities are cut to hold each gemstone in its intended position
Kundan gold is softened until it can be worked by hand
Each stone is set individually, with the softened gold pressed around its edges
The piece is polished and finished, with any final detailing added last

There is no shortcut through this sequence. The time invested at each stage - particularly the hand-setting of individual stones - is what gives finished kundan jewellery its weight, its durability, and the depth that distinguishes it from machine-set pieces.

What Does a Kundan Jewellery Set Typically Include?

A kundan jewellery set is rarely a single piece. It is usually a coordinated group of items designed to be worn together, most often for weddings and formal ceremonies. A complete set commonly includes:

A necklace or choker as the centrepiece
Matching earrings
A Maang tikka
Bangles or a haath phool, depending on the occasion

Brides frequently choose a heavier, more elaborate kundan set for the main wedding ceremony, and a lighter set for the reception or pre-wedding functions - allowing the jewellery to match the formality of each event rather than repeating the same look throughout.

Why Is Kundan Bridal Jewellery Still So Widely Chosen?

Kundan bridal jewellery continues to be chosen for weddings because it complements traditional bridal wear in a way few other styles do. Specifically:

It pairs naturally with lehengas and silk sarees, sitting well against heavier fabric and embroidery
It works across a wide colour range - red, maroon, pastel, and ivory outfits all carry it well
It carries a formal, traditional character suited to ceremonial occasions
It holds cultural and emotional weight, often passed down rather than bought fresh for each wedding

This last point matters more than most buyers expect. A kundan set bought for one wedding frequently becomes the piece worn by a daughter or granddaughter decades later, which is part of why buyers consider durability and craftsmanship, not just appearance, before purchasing.

Kundan Jewellery vs Jadau Jewellery: Is There Really a Difference?

This distinction confuses many first-time buyers, so it is worth stating plainly. Jadau refers to the overall technique of embedding stones without soldering. Kundan refers specifically to jewellery made using kundan - pure gold foil - as the setting material within that technique.

In practice, most traditional kundan pieces are made using the jadau method, which is why the two terms overlap so often in conversation and in how jewellery is described. Knowing the distinction helps when comparing pieces, since a seller using the terms interchangeably is not necessarily wrong - but should be able to explain which setting material was actually used.

How to Style Kundan Jewellery for a Modern Wedding

Kundan does not need to be worn exactly as it was a generation ago. Brides today style it in several ways that suit contemporary weddings while keeping the traditional character intact:

Pairing a kundan necklace with diamond studs rather than a matching kundan set
Choosing a lighter, more restrained kundan piece for mehendi or sangeet functions
Layering a kundan choker with a longer necklace for added dimension
Combining kundan with pearls for a softer, more understated bridal look

This flexibility is part of why kundan jewellery has remained relevant across generations rather than being confined to one style of wedding.

How to Identify Genuine Kundan Jewellery Before You Buy

Not every piece marketed as kundan jewellery is made using the traditional method, so it helps to know what to look for before buying:

A smooth, seamless setting around each stone, with no visible clasps or mounting
Real gold used in the setting itself, not gold-toned base metal
A noticeable weight to the piece, a natural result of hand-setting and solid gold work
Fine, consistent detailing that shows the hand of a skilled artisan rather than a mould

Genuine kundan jewellery is never produced at scale in the way machine-set jewellery is. Slight variations between pieces, rather than perfect uniformity, are often a sign of authentic handwork rather than a flaw.

Is Kundan Jewellery Only for Weddings?

Kundan jewellery is most visible at weddings, but its use has never been limited to bridal wear alone. Across Rajasthan and other regions with a strong kundan tradition, the craft has long extended to festivals, family celebrations, and formal gatherings.

Occasions where kundan jewellery is commonly worn include:

Festivals such as Diwali or Karva Chauth, where a single statement piece is often preferred over a full set
Family functions like engagements, anniversaries, and religious ceremonies
Formal gatherings where traditional attire calls for jewellery with a comparable sense of occasion

For these settings, buyers often choose a single kundan necklace, a pair of earrings, or a maang tikka rather than a complete bridal set - allowing the craftsmanship to come through without the scale associated with wedding jewellery. This is one reason kundan has remained a meaningful category well beyond bridal shopping alone.

Caring for Kundan Jewellery Over Time

Because kundan jewellery is meant to last across generations, how it is stored and worn matters as much as how it was made. A few practices help preserve both the setting and the gold over years of use:

Store each piece separately, wrapped in soft cloth, to prevent stones and settings from scratching against one another
Avoid contact with perfume, hairspray, or moisturiser, which can dull the gold surface over time
Remove kundan jewellery before bathing, swimming, or any activity involving prolonged water contact
Have the setting checked periodically by a jeweller familiar with kundan work, since the gold foil can loosen slightly with age and heavy wear
Clean gently with a soft, dry cloth rather than commercial jewellery cleaners, which can affect the setting

Handled this way, a well-made kundan piece can remain wearable and structurally sound for decades, which is part of why it is so often chosen as jewellery meant to be inherited rather than replaced.

Choosing Kundan Jewellery With Confidence

Understanding what is kundan jewellery - the material, the method, and the craftsmanship behind it - puts a buyer in a far stronger position than simply choosing on appearance alone.

At Jaipur Gems, kundan and jadau work have been made in-house since 1974, across two generations of the family. Jaipur Gems is a member of the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), India's apex trade body for the gems and jewellery industry.

Frequently Asked Questions About Kundan Jewellery

What is kundan jewellery made of?

Kundan jewellery is made using refined gold to set gemstones, usually uncut or polished, into a metal base without soldering, clasps, or visible prongs.

Is kundan jewellery real gold?

Yes - genuine kundan jewellery uses pure, softened gold as the setting material. Base-metal imitations exist, so checking the setting material matters.

How to identify kundan jewellery?

Look for seamless stone settings, real gold in the mount, noticeable weight, and fine hand-finished detailing rather than mould-perfect uniformity.

Does kundan jewellery hold resale value?

Kundan jewellery holds value mainly through its gold content and craftsmanship. Purity, weight, and stone quality determine resale value, not brand alone.

How many types of kundan jewellery are there?

Kundan jewellery spans necklaces, chokers, earrings, maang tikkas, and bangles - worn individually or as coordinated bridal sets for ceremonies.